Travel: South Africa

After her amazing World Cup adventure, our writer walks us through her must-sees in Cape Town and its surroundings.

By Megan Dobransky
Published: July 9th, 2010 | 2:50pm

It’s been two weeks, but I still wake up in the middle of the night and wonder where I am. At first, I think I'm wrapped in the warmth of a fire in Pretoria, South Africa. Then I think, "No, I'm still in Muizenberg," and my body tenses, waiting for the sound of the commuter train to rattle the windows.

But then my eyes adjust to the darkness and I see familiar things like the painting on my wall and the books on my shelf, and I feel a bit of sadness as I fall back asleep. Being away from South Africa is a bit like being torn from a lover. I went for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, but the moment I landed in Johannesburg I knew my trip would be so much more.

The Jo’burg airport was bursting with excitement, people with flags singing in a mass of foreign tongues, bright colors splashed on nearly every centimeter, and smiles—smiles from ear-to-ear on almost everyone. It was joy embodied in a form I had never seen, and it was everywhere in South Africa. More than any country I’ve ever visited, going to S.A. felt like a celebration—a tribute to life after so much loss and peace after so much struggle. It was hard not to get caught up in the feeling and internalize it as my own.

From Jo’burg, my brother Nick and I traveled to Kruger National Park, where we saw lions, elephants, rhinos, and more, then we headed to Cape Town for an enthralling week—and finally to Pretoria for the first-round U.S. versus Algeria match. It was the highlight of our trip—an uproarious night of “U-S-A!” chants, screaming at the top of my lungs and high-fiving strangers who became friends when Landon Donovan scored in the 92nd minute to bring the U.S. a victory and a spot in the final 16.

Each place marked me more than I ever expected it would. I miss the flaxen fields of Pretoria, being greeted in sing-songy Afrikaans, “Mooorniiiing!” and even the cold rain of Cape Town giving me shivers.

There are dark sides to S.A., though; the poverty, the townships, the racism. The high barbed-wire-topped walls surrounding huge beautiful homes, remnants of post-apartheid chaos, still scream "We don't want you here!" Just outside the cities, people live in shacks for as far as the eye can see. They wander along the roads and highways looking for work, some women with their babies strapped to their backs. But in most of their eyes, there was a spark and an appreciation for life.

I’ve been to six other countries and, no matter where I’ve been, Americans seem to always be viewed with some contention. South Africa was different. Nick and I were buying beer at a “bottle store” (wine is available everywhere, but these specialty shops sell beer and liquor). Looking at us with awe, first me, then my brother, then me again, then my brother again, the cashier asked us with delight, "Are you foreign?"

"Yes. We're from the United States," Nick responded. Her eyes just widened. “The U.S.! What do you think of South Africa?" Everyone wanted to know this and our answer was always the same: "We love it!"

We went back the next day and the same woman called to the other cashier across the store, "These are my customers from the U.S.!" We were like a traveling sideshow act: the Amazing Americans. But not everyone was amazed by us. Dieter, who worked at a hostel in Pretoria, told me within 20 minutes of meeting him that Americans are full of shit. When I questioned him about it later, he admitted, “Well, not all of them, no.”

One of the workers on the Bloukrans Bridge, the world’s highest bungy jump, where my scream probably still echoes in the canyon, wasn’t impressed. "Where are you from?" he asked us. "The U.S.," we replied. And he just stared at us, perplexed, drawing together his eyebrows. He shook his head, "Never heard of it." Then he unleashed a tremendous laugh. "I love telling Americans that," he exclaimed, slapped each of us on the back and walked away chuckling.

By and large, the locals just seemed excited to have people from all over the world running around in their streets, chanting football cheers, and blowing vuvuzelas.

Henry, who also worked at the hostel in Pretoria, sat me down by the fire one night and said, “Let me tell you what South Africans think of when we think of America…cowboys with big hats, ya know, and rednecks.” Great. That’s just what I want America to be known for. Henry’s friend echoed the notion, but his vision was much more romantic.

“I would give everything to go to the U.S.,” he said. “I want to go to a ranch. I want to see big mountains with a little green valley below and a river running through it.” But that wasn’t the real reason he desperately wants to go to the U.S. “Everything is bigger and better there,” he kept repeating throughout the conversation. Before he left, he frowned at me and said, “But I’ll never get to go. Traveling is too expensive for us.”

But the world came to South Africa. It was much debated whether or not the World Cup would leave a legacy on the country. Morning radio shows were littered with commentary—can they overcome the debt, will the tourists would be back, and, perhaps most importantly, if the world will still care about South Africa when the matches are done? All I know is that South Africa had a lasting impact on me. I will be back.

South Africa's Must-Sees

Pretoria

Most likely, you’ll fly into Johannesburg. Truthfully, you can skip it, but if you want to stay in the area try Pretoria, which is about 30 minutes north. It’s the executive capital of S.A. with a pretty city center. You’ll find all the nightlife and bars in Hatfield Square.

Tip: Stay at Jam Backpackers, one of the best hostels I've encountered. It’s clean and comfortable, and you can enjoy the meals they cook for you with the staff and other guests.

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Cape Town

The "Mother City" opens her arms and gives you a big snuggly hug. Her embrace is hard to break. Chances are you’ll want to stay in Cape Town for a while as there’s tons to do.

Victoria and Albert Waterfront: It's the most visited place in S.A., but that shouldn’t stop you from checking it out. It’s stunningly beautiful and home to a variety of restaurants, shops, and bars.
Table Mountain: By far the most recognizable feature in South Africa, Table Mountain is the best place to see Cape Town. The strenuous hike to the top takes about three hours, but there are cable cars. However, the queue might take just as long as the hike.
Long Street: This hipper, less touristy neighborhood boasts shops, theaters, bars and restaurants, plus beautiful architecture and lots of history.

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Beyond Cape Town: Five Essential Stops

Muizenberg: This sleepy little village has great surfing options; just beware of the Great Whites.
Kalk Bay: Things close pretty early in Muizenberg, so for nightlife you’ll have to travel about two miles down the road to Kalk Bay. Be sure to check out the Harbour House Restaurant, where mammoth waves crash mere inches from the huge windows.
Stellenbosch: Well worth it for the views alone, this food and wine mecca offers a number of scenic tours and tastings.
Cape of Good Hope: Visit the most southwestern point on the African continent, which is about an hour from Cape Town. On the way, stop at Boulder Beach, home to thousands of adorable penguins.
Hermanus: An hour from Cape Town, it's regarded as one of the best places in the world to spot a whale from land. With a 180-degree view of the ocean, you quickly understand why.

Tip: I found that Muizenberg was an ideally located place to stay while exploring these outskirts. It's 20 minutes from Cape Town and not more than an hour from the rest. Try the Beach Lodge.

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Daredevils Only: Bloukrans Bridge

The world’s highest bungy, at 698 feet, is the real deal (yes, I took the plunge). It’s about six hours from Cape Town and two hours from Port Elizabeth, so make sure you’re prepared for a long ride.