VZ City Guides: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Travel south — all the way south — to the Paris of South America

By Whitney Weiss
Published: July 15th, 2009 | 12:00am

Nicknames: BA, Bs As, "the Paris of South America"
Population: Bigger than NYC! 13 million people live in greater Buenos Aires
Happenin' Hoods: The various Palermos, Microcentro, San Telmo

Buenos Aires is a city of contrasts. The capital of a country that's the last stop before Antarctica, it's a mix of cultures from all over the world. The saying goes, "An Argentine is an Italian who speaks Spanish, thinks he's French, but would like to be English." Drinking in French mansions and partying in neighborhoods with names like Palermo Hollywood, you'll find this to be true. And if Argentina’s turbulent political history has deterred you from visiting, don’t worry. Normal city smarts should keep you safe, plus the exchange rate (expected to hit four pesos to one US dollar this year) makes it downright cheap compared to Europe. Best of all, the locals — known as Porteños or "people of the port" — live up to their reputation. Gorgeous, impeccably dressed, and extremely friendly, if you go out to the bar, you're likely to make friends in a way that you never would in any other big city.

Dates:
If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, take advantage of visiting BA during your winter, which falls smack in the middle of the Porteños’ summer. If you can’t make that work, there are plenty of other reasons to visit year-round as festivals abound in this South American megalopolis. Cinephiles should try to make it for BAFICI — you’ll be amazed to see the major theaters in town choosing to screen independent films from all over the world. Thankfully, this is a land of subtitles, not dubs, so English-speakers have options aplenty.

The hugely popular Creamfields electronic music festival happens in November. Last year, Simian Mobile Disco and Crystal Castles played alongside local fave Modex. And the best way to get into South America's booming art scene is at May's ArteBA, a five-day event where galleries from all over the country display their best and brightest. Browse or buy, just don't miss the opening night party.

Sights:
Buenos Aires is a huge city with a rich history, and there's a lot to see. And even though you won’t be able to channel your inner Madonna from Evita’s stead on the pink balcony, you can still take some pictures of the Casa Rosada from the street. Located at the edge of the famous Plaza de Mayo, this is a prime location for local peaceful protests, of which you are likely to see many while you’re in BA.

You know Salvador Dali, but what about Xul Solar? This Argentine surrealist artist's former home has been preserved and turned into a museum in Recoleta. It's definitely worth visiting. Also of note is MALBA, the modern art museum that's always running a great film series and is free on Wednesdays. If you like cats and trees, take a break from the city's hustle and relax in the Jardin Botanico. And if it's a nice summer day, treat yourself to a trip through the Reserva Ecologica del Sur or catch an open-air movie and hang out in Plaza Serrano.

Fare:
Meat-eaters, rejoice! You've found your paradise. Argentine beef is known worldwide for being luscious, and one of the best spots to try it is at El Preferido, a neighborhood favorite where one order of milanesa will easily feed four. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will love Krishna, a cozy and stylish vegetarian restaurant in hip Palermo. Get a pitcher of their ginger-lemonade and enjoy the food's spices, since Argentina's seasoning of choice is usually just salt.

The restaurant you absolutely cannot miss is Cafe San Juan, a family-run joint where hot skateboarder chefs whip up amazing meals in an open kitchen. Appetizers are tapas, and the mains are definitely large enough to be shared. It's literally the best food in the city, and the locals know it, so make a reservation and be ready to throw down.

For snacking, embrace the cafe culture, have an empanada, or better yet, grab an ice cream. Italian immigrants have been perfecting their special version and we dare say it's better than the old country. Try the city's best at Dylan, where ten pesos gets you a towering cone of the freshest ice cream you've ever tasted. Go for the Chocolate Dylan or Dulce de Leche and marvel at the amount of candy they fit in.

Nights:
If you're expecting to be in bed before the sun's up, you're not embracing the culture. Since dinner finishes around midnight, no one in their right mind will be in a club before 2:00am. And for the serious 24-hour party people, the weekend starts on Tuesday. So take a nap to ready yourself, and then start your night at Le Bar, for drinks and DJs in a regal mansion. For stories your friends at home won't believe, you've gotta hit up Kim Y Novak, a bar run by filmmakers and frequented by weirdos, artists, and occasional models. The drag queens who set the bar for fashion in BA are your hosts on Fridays at Club Namunkura, for fierce theme parties and kickass music. Check to see what's up at SOMA, also known as Vieja Iglesia, a gorgeous former church that draws a younger crowd (ask around for the deets on this spot). Don't want the night to end? Head to Miloca or Cocoliche where the die-hards often keep partying until 1:00 ...in the afternoon.

Merch:
Before you even arrive, you can plan your outfits by checking out stylish locals on BA's best street fashion blog, On The Corner. Fans of the American Apparel aesthetic will rejoice at local fave A.Y. Not Dead, independently designed and produced clothing that's remarkably similar yet infinitely better. The exchange rate means you can grab hipster couture for around $30 (US). Impress your friends in the States with Ts from Lovers & Fuckers, too. For impulse buys, hit up Cualquier Verdura. Visiting is like walking into a hip friend's impeccably designed apartment, except every piece of furniture, old record, and vintage toy is for sale.

To shop like the locals, head to the galerías on Avenida Santa Fe (located in Recoleta). These themed malls are great places to find bargains, especially the numerous vintage clothing spots in Galería Quinta (5ta). For presents to bring home, including hand-sewn clothing and antiques, check out Sunday's outdoor market in San Telmo, which is a zoo — albeit a fun one.

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If there is a special city you'd like to see, or a killer hot spot we somehow overlooked in this guide, email VZ City Guides editor, Erica Phillips, at cityguide (at) venuszine (dot-com).